Das ist ein Vogel! Das ist ein Flugzeug! Nein, das ist SuperLiam!

So Liam loves his new toy chest.  And ja, we know it's a suitcase (der Koffer), but it gets the job done:

Liam also has his own idea of what a greasy, unhealthy french fry (die Pommes) is:

And who needs a microphone (das Mikrofon) when you have a paper towel roll?

Das Leben ist gut!  Like I said before -- life is good!  I love me some Deutschland and how well it seems to suit us  :)

Mommy and Gangsta Liam

Liam body-slammed me right after this pic was taken. Maybe a future in pro wrestling?

Essen und Trinken in Bamberg und Memmelsdorf

We flew 5000 miles to go here for lunch:

Seriously?  Seriously!

There are two McDonald's locations in the city of Bamberg, and on post (as with every Army base I know of), there is a Burger King, Pizza Hut Express, Charley's Subs, Subway, and Popeye's, along with probably a few other American comforts I've overlooked.


But don't get us wrong.  We may have given in to our Whopper craving.  But we haven't missed out on the rich culture of Franconian food here in Bamberg (of Upper Franconia).  Side note: the Franconia - Bavaria affiliation is much like the Texas - USA affiliation.  The people of Bamberg are technically located in the state of Bavaria, but the specific region within the state is Franconia.  The natives of Bamberg and other Franconian regions much prefer to be considered Franconian (read: Texan), not Bavarian (read: American).  It's a less testy issue now, but in recent history I guess it was way more important for these folks to align with their region of Franconia rather than their state of Bavaria.


Back to the real issue at hand:  Food.  Anyone who knows the Kellys knows we love essen und trinken -- to eat and drink...  So our sponsor family, Jon and Sara, have been *fabulous* since before we got to Bamberg, making us feel welcome and prepared for our time here.  Beyond giving us an international "starter" Handy (mobile phone) and setting us up with our temporary lodging, Sara has been willing to be seen with us in public.  I KNOW, right?!?


Most recently, Sara took us out to Memmesldorf, a village on the outskirts of Bamberg, and we joined some new friends (Maria and her bud Joe) for Abendessen (literally, "evening eating").  The place?  The Höhn.  The experience?  Fabulous!  


The drinks were fun and thirst-quenching.  I started with Maria's recommendation of a Federweiß, which is a "young" wine -- wine provided after only the first pressing, early in the fermentation process.  The literal translation is "feather white" and is named such because the fizzy action gives the appearance of white feathers tracing along the glass.  The wine is sweet, light, fruity, and cloudy (but each glass looks slightly different given the nature of the wine -- it's not regulated like a completed wine).  Zeke enjoyed a glass of the house beer called Görchla.  We also each tried the Görchla Bock.  Another side note:  Bocks are sweet, not bitter, lagers with little to no hops presence (the Europeans actually measure hops levels with the International Bittering Units scale which determines the bitterness of beer created from hops concentration), and while Bocks range widely in color, they all have in common a higher alcohol content (from 5% to upwards of 12-13%) and are produced seasonally (usually fall-Christmas, with the Christmas lager from each brewery typically being the strongest).  Fun FYI:  Bavarian monks would drink Bocks to help nourish them during fasting periods.  Ja, let's give devout religious isolationists high alcohol beers and no food for extended periods of time.  Awesome.


As for the food at the Höhn?  Delectable!  Borderline-excessive amounts of meats (but not fried or heavy), veggies (of all shapes and sizes), starches (but not guilty ones), salads (and you don't pick a dressing; it just comes the way it is and you'll like it)... delicious.  Pictures wouldn't do it justice, so enjoy the following video to get a "taste" of Germany!

Bamberg Fall Plärrer

So it is officially Herbst, or autumn, here in Bamberg.  The leaves are falling, the nights are chilly, and the air is crisp.  Even in the late afternoon, we've already been able to see our breath.  Gorgeous!

The Berliner Ring, a main road in and around Bamberg

Typical building on post

Crazy cool trees here

One of the athletic fields on post -- with the Bamberg skyline in the distance

It seems that Germany has festivals and celebrations through most of the year, and now is no different.  The 178th Oktoberfest just ended in München (Munich), but on its heels, Bamberg is hosting a Plärrer -- essentially, a small fair for the city, operating until the end of October.  

We walked to the fair the other night and were pleasantly surprised to see some familiar sights:  fair rides, games, food stands, bales of hay, and lots of happy people.  Liam was hypnotized by the techno lights of the super fast tilty ferris wheel ride, and Zeke and I got a kick out of the fact that the bumper cars and train cars had American license plates!


And, of course, there was das Bier stand.  We enjoyed a Hefeweiß (a primarily wheat as opposed to barley beer in which the yeast is unfiltered -- cloudy and golden in appearance) and a dunkles Hefeweiß (darker malts are used, so the color is darker than the Hefe).  In America, we've seen similar beers labeled as Hefeweizen, but they're not half as cool as the Bier here.  ;)


We opted for hot dogs for dinner.  These tubes of meat were in a completely different league than American dogs; they were grilled, 1.5" in diameter, about 12" long, and one was smothered in Danish fixings and the other was done up Mexican style.  The buns were sourdough and the experience was unforgettable.  


Zeke and I enjoyed the company of some friends while downing die Bier und die Fleische (beer and meat)... and Liam preferred throwing rocks and blabbering to German passers-by.

Ich mag Felsen werfen -- I like to throw rocks!!

Liam und Papa Spielen!

Wir haben kein Spaß!  We are having no fun!  :)  Since we got to Germany, we've been able to have a lot of time to play and relax as a family -- what a welcome change from our time in the States!  Here's more proof of how miserable the boys are (and thanks Grammy for the awesome mittens!!!):

The Bamberg Inn

Our temporary lodging is just plain awesome.  We got the last room available, and it turns out the place is the Executive Suite.  I'd guesstimate we're inhabiting around 1000 sq ft, with a full bathroom, huge bedroom, spacious living area, and crappy kitchen.  :)  Zeke and I treasure kitchen space, but we're also not snobs about it, so we're having fun getting creative with meals in a space providing only a microwave and a college-sized fridge.

The floors are all either carpeted or tiled (fancy schmancy granite-grade shiny tiles, mind you), and the walls are all covered in a simple off-white textured material.  The bathroom has beautiful floor-to-ceiling tile work as well.  The high ceilings in the suite have efficient recessed lighting throughout, and as you'll see, the ceiling area is decorated with wooden slats in approx 2ft x 2ft squares with a tan canvas under the squares.  Really tasteful stuff here!  The windows do that cool Euro-style opening by which you can either swing them inside the room to a fully open position or just tip them inward from the top to serve as a vent.

We are very fortunate to have so much room, and we've learned that if, during the next 30 days, we have difficulty finding permanent housing (very likely -- Bamberg is in high-demand, low-supply mode, which I wish Sanford were in right now!), we'll be able to extend our stay in this place for at least another 30 days. I have a feeling we'll be slow and deliberate in our house hunting.  :)  And rest assured, we will post videos of our hunting -- it might not be HGTV House Hunters International quality, but I guarantee you our commentary won't be as banal.

Here's a virtual tour of our temporary home!

Willkommen!

Halo, Frankfurt!  We arrived just after 1000 on 12OCT to a chilly, overcast, but fabulous Frankfurt airport.  Their baby rooms in the airport had enough room for all three of us to change, clean up, and feel human again after endless hours in airports and planes.

I hope this place is ready for us

Biiiiiiig stretch!

 After checking in with the military folks at the airport, we learned we would have about 4 hours to relax and wait for our shuttle to Bamberg.

Zeke napped... and Liam made fun of him.

Liam proceeded to run around, crawl, screech like a raptor, push around luggage, and work himself into a crazy sweat, so we changed him into a t-shirt from Grandma Bobbey and Grandpa Marty.  I think he approved.

Our shuttle showed up and as soon as we started driving away, Liam passed out and slept for the next 3 hours.  Zeke and I tried to sleep a little as well.  I would have tried harder to get some shots of the German countryside, but it was rainy and didn't look as impressive as I know it can.  On our next road trip I'll get some good pics for everyone!

We spent our first night in a great hotel -- the Hotel National -- in downtown Bamberg.  Beautiful place, amazing people (friendly, kind, and they had already set up a pack n play upon our arrival!), and a delicious Frühstück stocked with all of Liam's favorites -- apples, bananas, oranges, yogurt, nutella, eggs, meats, pastries, you name it.  The server even brought Liam a china teapot full of hot milk (with a china cup, no less) and he was thrilled -- he got to have "kahkee" (that's how he says coffee) just like Mommy and Daddy.

Our first 24 hours in Germany?  Wunderbar!  Wonderful!

Just A Plane Ride...

We are safe, sound, and very comfortably settled in Deutschland.  Before we share Germany with you, I think some highlights of the commute are a must:

1.  Beware of non-direct flights.  Our original flight of Charleston-Charlotte was one hour late, meaning we'd miss our Frankfurt connection in Charlotte, so we thankfully were able to shift to a Charleston-Philly flight with a Philly connection to Frankfurt, but then that flight out of Chucktown ran almost two hours late, which gave us moments to get from Terminal F to Terminal A in the Philly airport, and they were already wrapping up boarding, and oh my good Lord I didn't think we'd make it but then suddenly we were cozied on the plane and on our way to Germany.

2.  Avoid the Charleston airport at all costs.  Turns out that their Charlotte and Philly flights are always running late and people are regularly missing connecting flights -- and the airport recognizes this fact and still chooses not to add any planes to the roster.

3.  US Airways in Charleston might need a swift kick in the butt.
First, they don't find it necessary to maintain any representatives at their kiosk by the gate.  Really helpful when flights are delayed and passengers need assistance.  And the workers they do pay to stand around at the last minute have no idea what they're doing.  Zeke actually had to explain to a US Airways woman how to re-route our bags when we switched flights.  She looked at him like he had two heads, but seriously?  And she acted like it was his fault for having our bags on the original flight.  As if we intentionally booked ourselves on a flight that would be delayed significantly just so we could make her life a little more difficult by then requiring her to (God forbid) use her radio to ask the baggage guys to do their jobs and re-route our bags.  Right.  Our plan the whole time.
Second, and I believe her name is RHONDA but I'm sure the following descriptors and story will single her out to anyone who has encountered her, there was a discourteous, rude, abrasive, hates-her-life-and-blames-the-world, bitch of a woman who was responsible for removing the gate-checked bags from our plane.  Unbeknownst to most of us, the plane to Philly had zero storage for bags so there were easily a dozen bags that had to be gate-checked, including obvious computer bags and more delicate items people had been deceived into thinking they could carry on to the plane. Rhonda proceeded to complain loudly about the number of bags to be checked and then THREW the bags off the plane onto the gate ramp.  Zeke and the guy next to him both jumped up and asked her to be careful with the bags because people have computers in them.  She turned on her big fat ugly heel and accused them of being stupid for putting computers in checked bags.  THEY WERE CARRY-ON PIECES YOU CRAZY LADY.  She continued to spout rudeness and general crap-for-customer-service behavior until she muttered her way off the plane and let us go on our way.  Everyone within hearing distance of the front of the plane agreed Rhonda was a waste of flesh and should be fired.  Maybe I'll copy this post and send it to corporate.

4.  Be prepared to wind up in a foreign country without any clothes.  Of our 6 checked bags and one stroller, all but one bag arrived safely and on time at the Frankfurt airport.  Unfortunately, the one bag they missed in the re-routing was the one containing all of Zeke's civilian clothes.  And because the Charlotte flight the bag stayed on was late, the bag was not able to catch the Frankfurt flight and wasn't sent to Frankfurt until the next day.  Here we are, three days after our arrival, and he finally got his clothes.  Mind you, one of the handles on the bag has been ripped off and the bag looks like it was "ridden hard and put away wet" (thanks for that one Grandma Bobbey), but I don't think I've ever seen Zeke this happy to put on his jeans -- maybe today's joy is exceeded only by the look on his face when he rocks civilian clothes after 15 months in the desert.  Maybe.

And to end on a high note:  5.  Babies are very portable and useful.  Liam napped in the wrap while Zeke and I had drinks at the Charleston airport bar (being there for 7 hours requires at least a few celebratory beverages).  Liam's portability -- and his practical usefulness -- was also clear when we put him in his car seat and then loaded the seat into a wheelchair and wheeled him with our carry-on bags through various airports.  Genius.  And during the big plane ride over the ocean, after Liam had slept peacefully in his car seat, he wanted to be held for a bit and he just curled up on me, kept me warm, and we both passed out.  Portable, convenient, and constantly entertaining.  Babies rock.

How To Reach Us

Our cell phones will be no more as of tonight when we leave the country, and as of yet, we don't have new numbers established (international or otherwise).  As soon as we do, we'll let you know.

Until then, you can always email us via gmail (msk0718@gmail.com or mrs.jessica.kelly@gmail.com) or our Army accounts (michael.kelly34@us.army.mil or jessica.l.kelly2@us.army.mil).

And good old-fashioned snail mail is a guarantee, so feel free to mail us at our new address:

Michael and Jessica Kelly
CMR 459 Box 17112
APO, AE 09139

It's a U.S. address, so you don't have to worry about any weird postage rules as far as we know.

We're leaving on a jet plane -- just a few hours to go!  Our best to everyone.

Say WHAT?!?!?!

We're leaving for Germany this week... we're flying overseas 11 OCT.

I know.

I KNOW.

Stop crying.  I know it's hard to imagine life without us, but I mean it.  Seriously.  We'll be back before you know it.  Time flies when you're having fun, and goodness knows we're not going to have time to do anything but when we're over there.

Keep checking the blog for updates.  It might take us awhile to settle in and have regular internet access, but once we do, we'll be your eyes and ears to Europe.

Until then, let me blab a little about life.

So Liam is a rock star, tried and true.  He can count to 6, has easily 80 words in his vocabulary, and is such a charmer.  He has this thing for adults which I think is hilarious, given he's a toddler.  Every time an adult comes near us, he puts on his grin, pulls out all the stops, and does what he can to reap attention and adoration.  SO FUNNY.

Having Daddy home has been (obviously) a true joy.  Liam is being typical and favoring Mommy, but if Daddy leaves the room all Hell breaks loose and the world isn't right until Daddy is back again.  Plus Liam is learning all those special "man" things you can pick up only from watching a man exist in daily life.  Suddenly Liam knows how to put his hand at his hip, scruff up his hair, saunter down the hallway, what have you.

Man things.

Hopefully Liam will realize how to pee in a toilet now that Daddy's around, because we're all about done with Diaper Patrol.

Life is good.  I'm hoping I don't have to change this entry due to copyright privileges for that company who makes the awesome t-shirts (which I know at least Jackie owns) and beach towels (which I know Uncle Tom and Aunt Sheila got us) because we should all be able to embrace that idea without reservation.  I hope the company understands and doesn't threaten a C&D order **BUY THEIR MERCHANDISE; IT'S ALL SO CUTE**

We've been sitting patiently waiting on this Germany bid since December, and it's so comforting to be here, finally, experiencing what we've been imagining.  Our bags are stuffed to the brim with belongings set to last us at least a month or two in Germany.  Our flights are set to send us to Frankfurt in a matter of days.  Our housing overseas is arranged to hold us over until we find our new "home."  And our sweet Miles is settled in and loving his new Mommy and family with Malena and her parents (yes, that's right, we had to give our beloved pup to someone who could love him even better than we, and Malena is wonderful and we adore her!!).

So here we go.  We'll keep you in the know, and we'll take all the love and prayers we can get.  In return, I promise to overwhelm this blog with the most realistic, intimate, and heartfelt portrayal of Germany and Europe that one can provide.  I'm going there with arms wide open -- and I'm taking it all in knowing I might be someone's only view to that side of the world.  Vielen dank, for all the good times in America thus far.  And for those of you who join us for tourism and fun on the other side of the pond -- here's your "Gern geschehen!" in advance.

Love and hugs and nothing but the best to you all.  The time has come for us, in all seriousness, to "sprechen sie" blog.  I hope we don't let you down!